The name was exotic, and southern Spain was unknown and beckoning. We didn't quite throw a dart at a map, but similar. It was a pilgrimage route in Europe, the length was right, we had the time. If we could deal with the heat we could do it, so number one priority was to start early enough in the year. I documented the planning in an earlier blog entry:
Camino Mozárabe - Planning - a work in progress At first we picked April 17 as a start date in Granada. Then I reread
James Michener's Iberia - Easter is a huge deal in Granada, no chance of finding reasonable accommodations at this late date, plus it would be crazy to be there at Easter and then leave without experiencing the whole Easter week. So, we moved the date to April 27th. Got to Málaga saw a few sights, slept, and caught the bus to Granada. Pouring rain on the bus, but just showers by the time we arrived around noon. Into the hotel to drop our stuff and then out. Found where the Camino Mozárabe route started. (Marked by a plaque). Walked it to the point closest to our hotel, to avoid having to search for it on departure day. The graffiti in Granada was up to the standards of Spain. I did a separate
youtube just on the colors of Andalucia
The big deal in Granada is the Alhambra, palaces and grounds dating from Moorish times but used by the Catholic monarchs as well. However, don't neglect the little things, like manhole covers.
We missed Easter, but hadn't realized that the saints have to go home. The various saints are cared for by associations confraternities? and brought to church for special occasions. The process of getting there is elaborate, with a procession, a band, various groups of people. What we didn't realize is that the return home for the saints is also a major event, and we managed to see several of these.
After a day plus in Granada our walk begins. Rain threatening but not happening. City suburbs are not all that exciting. You have to seek it out. In this part of Spain, abandoned industrial buildings are the thing of interest. Susan is still nursing some knee problems from a hike a few weeks ago, so we stop every couple of hours if we can find a dry enough place. We reach Pinos Puente for the night and find the next day that rain is likely. Still, the contrast of the red poppies, the green and the wet is striking.
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Enroute to Moclin |
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olive groves are NOT boring |
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Alcaudete |
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silo de aceite - trail landmark |
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In Baena we saw lots of cars with trailers, no pickups |
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Baena's San Francisco |
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We didn't see pickups, but saw lots of trailers |
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the mosque in Cordoba |
This is our end point, from here we went to Cadiz, Sevilla and Madrid
This is quite an enticing invitation to follow in your steps at some point. Beautiful pictures. Thank you.
ReplyDeleteSo you read Michener's Iberia. Hm...
Actually I've read it three times over about forty years, each time skimming through sections that didn't appeal to me at the time. He clearly loves himself, but loves Spain and provides a massive amount of information. I get new insights each time.
ReplyDeleteI'd love to walk that route, so I was slightly envious reading this.
ReplyDelete(PS I answered your query at the place where you left it)
Have you read Gerald Brenan's 'South From Granada'? Brilliant book.
Waiting for it to show up on USA Kindle.
ReplyDelete